On 24th June 1935, Carlos Gardel, tragically died in a plane crash in Medellin, Colombia. Since then his reputation as a singer and exponent of tango has grown enormously. Many tango groups celebrate Gardel’s music on the anniversary of this death by holding a milonga with a 1930s theme. Often the 1930s are confused with flapper era of the 1920s so Tango Australia went in search of 1930s evening wear.

Fashion in the 1930s was influenced by the Great Wall Street Crash of October 24, 1929 and the subsequent Depression which lasted until the beginning of the Second World War. Cuts in wages and unemployment led to less spending power in the community and thousands faced a struggle to survive. But not the rich and famous. This was the beginning of the celebrity cult.

Wealthy men and women who had the time and the money to socialise, still changed into formal dress for dinner and evening entertainments in the 1920s and 30s.

What women wore in the 1930s

For the first time the natural, slim silhouette was the Look for women. Features were:

• Hemlines down at the ankle,
• low necklines,
• waists where they were meant to be,
• soft gathers
• fabric cut on the cross or draped
• wide scallop-edged or ruffled collars
• bodices featured inset pieces and yokes and necklines
• wedge heels
• shoulder pads for the first time.

The fashion for women in the 1930s was a stark contrast to the flapper look of the 20s and evening outfits were more glamorous and sensual.

The empire gown was a popular evening look,  Styles often showed off the woman's back, sometimes with ties or by dropping to the back waist – a style known as having ‘’back interest’’!

It might have butterfly or large, puffy sleeves and even a train. Fabric flowers appeared just about anywhere - at the neckline, on one shoulder, in the middle of the waist or on one side. Bows were another popular accent. A flounce at the waist and covering the hips, known as a peplum, also made its debut in late thirties evening wear. More trim was seen in daywear, with evening wear a showcase for cut and fabric drapery.

Other features that define this era include moderately full skirts accenting a small waist and minimizing hips. The skirt was very important. Yokes in the upper skirt appeared for the first time, as did layers and ruffled looks. The skirt bottom was often full with pleats or gathers.

Accessories

This was the beginning of the nfluence of Hollywood. Movie fashions were a major influence on styles and movie stars endorsed jewellery and accessories.

A women would:

• wear gloves
• carry a small bag known as a pochette
• wear shoes with high heels or platforms
• do her in a hair wavy style and keep it shoulder length.

Fur kept shoulders and bodies warm during the evening as well as the day. Fur capes, coats, stoles wraps, accessories and trimmings appeared just about anywhere. There was no artificial fur and pelts in demand included sable, mink, chinchilla, Persian lamb and silver fox.

Makeup - thin eyebrows, rose and orange lips

• Makeup was skin-coloured with a touch of pink or a colour as natural as possible.
• Eye shadow was blue, bright violet, green, brown or orchid and shimmering in the evening. A dark eyeshadow made a line in the crease.
• Eyebrows were thinly plucked, coloured in darkly and given a shiny look with petroleum jelly or olive oil. 
• On their lips the women wore rose and orange colours. Colours moved to bright reds by the end of the decade.
• Nail colours were similar, although in 1932 black nail varnish made a short show. Nail polish did not cover the whole nail, just the middle, leaving the half moor and the tips bare.

Fabrics in 1930s fashion

Natural fibres were popular.
Artificial fabrics included acetate, and rayon, all in light to medium weights. Velvet, georgette, crepe, organdy, satin were used in both day or evening wear.
Muted or deeper  colours were the most popular but brighter colour was acceptable Prints were used also in soft or medium shades and small to medium in size. Besides florals, geometric and abstract prints became popular  Surrealism influenced prints, as artist Salvador Dali designed textiles for designers.

What men wore in the 1930s

The man’s evening suit had a coat with tails, dress trousers usually in a fine black wool cloth, and worn with a white waistcoat. Starched wing collar and white bow tie complete the picture. This is the ‘white tie and tails’ that Fred Astaire put on with his top hat and was the more formal version of evening dress. The less formal outfit was the dinner jacket and black bow tie, usually called ‘black tie’.

Movie stars influenced men’s fashion as well. When Clark Gable took off his shirt in a movie and only his bare chest was visible men stopped wearing undershirts! Later in the decade, double breasted jackets became popular again and the front of the man's jacket was higher. Hats were mandatory for the well-dressed man.

Carlos Gardel was always dresssed elegantly and frequently wore a hat. In this clip he sings por una cabeza, a song he wrote.  Watch for the fashions

Gangsters were frequently in the news as well – to many they must have seemed to be the only successful people in the 30s. And gangster fashion was also popular. The Zoot Suit, born in America’s Harlem with its nightlife subculture was popular with the Hispanic population. It is an exaggerated style with baggy pants, an oversized jacket, gold chains and a hat called a tando. 

The most influential fashion designers included Elsa Schiparelli, Salvatore Ferragamo (shoe design) and Charles James.

You can read more about Carlos Gardel here 

This article is copyright TangoAustralia 2008. It may not be reproduced in any form without written permission of the publisher